Le Clos du Merle

In 1984, Guy Lassausaie took over the kitchen at this family-run establishment, founded four generations earlier in 1906. In an elegantly refurbished interior done out in shades of grey, black and white, the chef (a Meilleur Ouvrier de France) has charted a remarkably assured course, enthusiastically celebrating local and, more generally, French tradition, with flashes of creativity. Think fillet of brill with vanilla beurre blanc, salsify and porcini, or Ain pigeon hay-roasted in a sealed cocotte, full-bodied jus and baby vegetables. Feelgood food that delivers the odd surprise.

In the heart of Lucenay, a village built of Beaujolais golden limestone, this restaurant occupies a converted village school. Pauline Fleuret, along with her partner, front of house, keeps things simple in this inviting space. Her market-fresh cuisine is fresh and healthy, designed for maximum flavour: Comté croquettes, saucisse de Morteau and beetroot ketchup; chicken blanquette with tarragon and candied lemon, polenta gratin; lemon and sesame cake, mascarpone cream and meringue pieces. Reasonable prices. Booking is essential.

The twin of the Lyon Café Terroir, this restaurant is located in the grounds of Domaine Saint-Cyr, the wine estate in Anse, on the edge of the Beaujolais area. A new take on Lyon specialities, excellent roast meats for sharing and an extensive wine list, on which the estate takes centre stage alongside vintages from Beaujolais and other terroirs, all from independent winegrowers. The place has a rustic and welcoming bistro feel and a terrace looking out onto the surrounding countryside.

This 18C edifice by the River Saône feels like a cross between a trendy guinguette and a country house. The food is resolutely in the zeitgeist, but for all that does not neglect French classics, a case in point being pan-fried frogs' legs or sautéed calf’s sweetbread. Peaceful, cosy terrace.